I have always enjoyed coming back to New York, a city of wonderful cuisine and colourful characters. However, it was with some difficulty that I found my way to ‘Chez Calorique Intaque’, which, as you will be aware, is the most recent of the city’s restaurants to receive that coveted third Michelin star. After finally ‘hailing’ one of the city’s delightfully quaint taxis, I instructed the driver, “You! Take me to Chez Calorique Intaque, and not by Albany either – I do know what you people are like, with your ‘tourist routes’.” Admittedly, I was rather tense - having waited a good five minutes in the rain, my Jasper Conran suit was quite close to ruin.
Happily, this chap was rather a cut above the usual ruffians they have driving taxis these days. He replied, “Shay Calorific? Pfft! I’ll show you where you should eat,” followed by some other phrases in a local vernacular that I am ashamed to admit, I completely failed to comprehend.
Shortly, we stopped outside a frightfully garish-looking establishment. As I stepped from the car, I realized the theme – post-retro pop art!
The interior perfectly confirmed this. Bright lighting and brash furnishings; waitresses in awful, dated attire.
The charming simplicity of the menu was a shocking delight. Undoubtedly influenced by the pop-art idée, the café has foregone the pretentious indulgence of naming its creations; instead one is greeted by a wonderfully collage of images – photographs of the dishes on offer! Set beside these charmingly plain pictures, one finds ironic descriptions of the dish. Such as ‘Frosty Dairy Dessert’ – written next to an image of Crême Glacée.
And the defining moment of my night: The picture of the ‘NEW! Strawberry Custard’. Clearly a variation on Crème Anglais, the lustrous sheen spoke to my taste buds as I regarded the glossy photograph. I could not wait to order entrées and the main course - I had to experience this amazing dessert!
When it came, I dove in with my 'plastic' spoon, to find a gastronomic experience I fear can never be bettered. Such simplicity! I never expected to find such joy in a lack of ingredients! For there was an unexpected lack of brandy, a shocking lack of saffron, even the obligatory balsamic was missing from these strawberries.
I left amazed. I urge you all to eat at this restaurant. It’s just such a wonderful change!